Culture Shock

Everything looked very small, very open and very sparse when we arrived back in Melbourne. It seems we had become used to the seething metropolis that is Tokyo.

We braved a peak hour train and swayed with the masses as it rounded bends at break neck speeds, surged forward as it left one station and surged back as it arrived at the next station.

We crossed the road in the rain with the masses, all shielded by their own personal umbrellas.

We joined thousands on a sunny Sunday, lined up to purify at the water fountain, stood in queues to enter a temple and after removing our shoes and bowed quietly and prayed at the shrine.

We stood and watched as cars, buses and trucks, boats and trains all scrambled for our focus on a busy city thoroughfare made up of 4 layers of road plus ten tracks of rail and the river below.

We were overwhelmed when we walked into a department store at opening time and every single sales assistant we passed bowed low to greet us.

There is no doubting it – we live in an under developed, under utilised, relaxed environment.

Japan and particularly Tokyo was exciting, but it is great to be back in slow, solemn Melbourne.

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A Family Day

Our last day in Tokyo was busy, and wet!

In between the sights of the Tsukiji Fish Market and the Tokyo Station we met nephew Mike and his beautiful family – Natsumi, Manami and Josh for lunch. It was a very special time for us with a delightful family. Natsumi had chosen a fantastic restaurant where we had a private room to share some special time together. Enough said… here are some photos of our time together.

 

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New Headers – Hong Kong, South Korea and Japan

Every time I have looked at my web page, the random header that is displayed has reminded me of our journey as Nomads in 2012.

But it is time to change them, to reflect on our newest journey through Hong Kong, South Korea and Japan in September and October 2013.

There are only a few images up at the moment, and as you will see from the lack of colour, we have had some very dull days – the result of a late typhoon season in the Western Pacific.

These images are also different, because I have used the panoramic feature on my new Sony HX-300 rather than the Photosynth app on my iPhone.  I am still learning how to get the best out of the panoramic shots.

And if you’d like to see my collection of headers from our Nomads 2012 adventure, check under the Travelling menu for Past Headers.

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Eating in Japan is such an adventure

If you can’t handle raw fish and chicken gizzards don’t come to Japan. If you are allergic to seafood or mushrooms, don’t come to Japan.  If you need to know everything that is in a meal presented to you, don’t come to Japan.

Japan is the greatest adventure in food I have ever experienced. I am not a brave eater, I will leave the chicken feet, shrimp heads and sea urchins alone by choice. But Japan has such diverse flavours and textures on offer, it is hard to resist trying it all, even if you don’t know what it is.

Even Japanese appear to order “sets”, a packaged meal comprising some raw fish, cooked meat/fish, soup, pickles, rice and miso. A little like a Bento Box, but laid out on a tray.  They are usually the easiest to order.

Most menus are not translated to English and there are few pictorial clues. At the railway restaurants and in areas where tourists frequent you will get plastic replicas on display outside. Some of these are astonishingly realistic, like a glass of draft beer I was tempted to touch.

There have been times when we have taken one look at the Japanese menu then asked the waiter to come outside while we point and choose from the plastic look-alike – not really knowing what we will end up with.

But get out of the main tourist areas and you are in for a real treat, like the barbeque restaurant that looked interesting. We were so lucky to be sitting beside a young couple who spoke good English and suggested the ¥3,000 set (about $AUD35) and proceeded to explain how to eat it – what sauces to use with what delicacies, how to use the grated radish as a mouth freshener.

Another restaurant specialising in Tongatsu had a simple pictorial card with a few English words, explaining how to grind the sesame seeds before mixing a sauce into it and dipping the meat into it.

A gentleman with a few English words explained what we were eating in a restaurant that specialised in deep frying morsels on sticks.

The Ryokans (Japanese style hotels) are also a great way to experience a wide variety of food.  Accommodation includes breakfast and dinner.  As many as 13 or 14 courses are presented in an array of dainty dishes, served by a Japanese hostess, kneeling in front of you as she lays out the food.

So visiting the markets is more than interesting, as you try to identify the raw foods that have been served to you in those dainty dishes.  Sometimes, perhaps you just don’t want to know what they are.

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Disaster averted

Woke up this morning feeling grim…  Bruce’s camera is broken, and photography is so important to him, that we decided to replace it with the latest alpa 57 model.

After researching “buying a Sony camera in Japan” we learned that Sony and Canon sell cameras to the domestic market with only the Japanese language – not helpful to us.  My nephew Mike had also come across the same problem when he wanted to buy a new camera in Japan and had selected the Sony RX100.

A little further digging on the internet, we learned that it is possible to buy some appliances at the “export counter” in large electrical stores. In Sony’s case, the export camera would have the languages other than Japanese.

So we arrived in Kyoto this morning and headed off to the nearest electrical store “BIC CAMERA”.  It took a lot of patience, a lot of waiting for someone who knew very little about cameras but did speak English, to help us.

And the alpha 57 model didn’t have one of Bruce’s favourite features, a completely twist around preview screen, so he can take portraits unsuspectingly.  The alpha 65 did have this feature.

So Bruce has another Sony alpha to add to his stable, and it works with all his current lenses.  He is a very happy chappy.

Bruce with his new, English language Sony a65 - phew

Bruce with his new, English language Sony a65 – phew

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Stuff Happens

Travelling is not without its woes.

My watch battery died. It is an underwater watch so getting a battery and pressure testing it was too complicated. Easier to buy a cheap Japanese watch to add to my wardrobe.

I lost my favourite black cardigan. It travelled Europe last year but didn’t leave the bar in Kumamoto.

Neither of these woes compete with Bruce’s. His a55 camera died. A quick Google search confirmed it a known problem which Sony won’t acknowledge.

For those of you who know Bruce’s love of photography, you will understand how devastating it is for him.

So now we will look for a replacement Sony a5x that has an English menu (a challenge in Japan), or he will just have to manage with the little RX-100 which I treated him for his birthday.

I am REALLY sad for you Bruce )-:

Bruce + camera

Bruce + camera

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Learning how to deal with rain

When it rains we tend to go to ground at home. Hide and keep dry.

Not so in Korea and Japan.

There are umbrellas for your use at all the hotels and in tourist parks. There are plastic bags for you to place your wet umbrella in as you enter department stores and museums. There are racks to leave your umbrella in when you go into the supermarket. And there are even umbrella drying sponges available.

It has been a slow learning process, but we are getting the message, carry your umbrella to keep dry. In the intense humidity and soaking rain an umbrella does a better job than a raincoat.

So our souvenir from Japan are two very light carbon fiber folding umbrellas.

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Eating in South Korea

One thing that bothers me is once in a country you are often confined to a very small selection of foods which seem to be repeated continuously until you leave. In Spain the offerings of jamon, paella, patatas bravas and tortilla are unending. Perhaps it is a matter of what you can decipher in another language and perhaps it is what tourists are offered, because I know that if you step out of the tourist zone the offerings are more varied and interesting.

So a surprising experience in South Korea has been the enormous variety of food we have been offered. You think of Korea as the Korean hotpot or the Korean barbeque or a variation of Japanese food. In fact there is a lot more to experience such as bibimbap (mixed rice), kimchi (fermented fish and vegetables), Korean pancake.  The list goes on.

Perhaps the fantastic variety is a product of a county where few westerners venture. Menus are not designed to please a western palate and we are truely eating what Koreans enjoy when they go out to eat.

And so we have left Korea, and there are a lot of stories of our fantastic time there under The Orient 2013 > South Korea.  Like the food, all our experiences were different – unexpected and interesting.

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Touring South Korea and Japan

As we were preparing to tour South Korea and then Japan, I found this article in the Tokyo Times entitled “Japan’s relations with S Korea is bad”, dated 5 months ago (approximately April 2013),

Around 71 percent of Japanese believe the state of Japan-South Korea relations is “bad”, according to a joint survey conducted by The Yomiuri Shimbun and The Korea Times. The result is a record, as the previous survey, conducted in 2011, showed that only 27 percent of the Japanese gave the same answer.

The major change is partially caused by the South Korean President Lee Myung Bak’s visit last August to the Takeshima islets, which are called Dokdo in Korea, according to the international press.

The survey was made on telephone between 22 and 24 March, after the inauguration of new governments in the two countries – the administration of Prime Minister Shinzo Abe started at the end of December and the new South Korean government led by President Park Geun Hye established two months later.

On the Korean side, about 78 percent of the interviewed people said the relations between Japan and South Korea are “bad”, up from 64 percent in the previous survey.

About 86 percent of Japanese considered Lee’s visit to the Takeshima islets to be “inappropriate” while 67 per cent of their Korean counterparts regarded it as “appropriate.”

As for the impact of the Abe administration on the bilateral relations, 30 percent of Japanese said it will be “positive”, while 9 percent said “negative”. Most of the surveyed people, around 52 percent, answered “neither”.

That will certainly make the journey interesting for us.

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A Special Celebration

A few days ago Bruce & I celebrated our 40th anniversary. Wow! Ten years PK (pre kids), developing our careers, 25 years nurturing, feeding and schooling Hayden & Evan and 5 years downsizing and learning to retire. We met travelling and have loved every opportunity to travel since.

When we made plans for our adventure to Hong Kong, South Korea and Japan we didn’t wrap it around this celebration – instead we decided to make the most of where we were. Of course there was no need for gifts, this adventure is as good a way to celebrate our life together as any.

The day started with a luscious, creamy cake from our tour operator Lillian from Novaland. After a token taste in the morning we managed to finish more than half the cake before leaving Seoul. I hope the staff at the SunBee Hotel enjoy finishing it off.  Thank you, Lillian.

It was business as usual during the day – the Jongmyo Shrine, a walk along Cheonggyecheon Stream, a photo opportunity of the amazing City Hall and a visit to Deoksugung Palace, finally braving the Korean underground to return to the hotel to freshen up.

The local tourist office recommended the SamcheongGak Restaurant. It was built in the 70s and is famous as a diplomatic and political meeting place, particularly during attempts to reconcile the north and the south of the country.

We chose a fixed menu that didn’t seem to offer too many of the truly Korean delicacies such as octopus jelly and fermented fish. It was an amazing experience to try all the foods offered in 12 courses, washed down with rice wine.

A celebration hard to beat!

 

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