Congratulations Dr. Hayden StainsbyB.Dig.Sys., M.Eng.(1), M.Eng.(2), Ph.D.

Ten or more years ago Hayden announced he wanted to undertake a PhD. It has been 3 years preparation with two masters achieved, and 4 further years of research and study.

Last night he achieved his dream.  The Mathematics Department of the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona awarded him his doctorate for his disertation on Triangular Basis of Integral Closures, and we were very proud to be there to watch his presentation.

Although we understood little of the presentation, it was clear that the panel took great interest in his work.

For us, this is the culmination of our long journey through the Silk Route to Barcelona. Evan & Steph flew in to join us, making it a family affair.

We are particularly proud of Hayden for an outstanding achievement and grateful to the gorgeous Andrea who has given him so much support along the way.

Well done Dr Stainsby!

 

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Silk Route – East to West

We arrived in Istanbul to celebrate a symbolic end to our Silk Road adventure.  It has been an amazing journey where we have seen other cultures and experienced their food.  We have met delightful people and been spoilt rotten by our numerous guides and drivers.

Our journey started on 31 August when we left Melbourne for Hong Kong.  We picked up the “Silk Route” in Xi’an China, following it west in China then to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyrstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran, Armenia, Georgia and ended in Turkey.  We travelled by plane, train, boat and road (statistics will follow).

We learnt about ancient conquerers and their quest to keep the Silk Route open.  We also learnt about Russia’s involvement in Central Asia since the mid-19th century, and the impact of the collapse of the USSR on these countries.

The “Silk Road” is not a road at all – in fact many routes were used, and in our travels we swapped from one route to another.

The Silk Road Project

The Silk Road Project in Khiva, showing some of the many routes of trade.

In Iran we travelled a highway that had ancient caravanserai (resting houses) beside it every 30 kilometers.  This was a day’s journey for a camel train.  The highway has been built on that route.

The term “Silk Road” is also modern, created by the 19th century German geographer Ferdinand von Richthofen who

is noted for coining the terms “Seidenstraße” and “Seidenstraßen” = “Silk Road(s)” or “Silk Route(s)” in 1877.

The journey has been made famous by Marco Polo, and there is much debate as to whether he brought noodles to Italy or spaghetti to China.  He was not the first European to reach China,

but he was the first to leave a detailed chronicle of his experience, recorded in Livres des merveilles du monde (Book of the Marvels of the World, also known as The Travels of Marco Polo, c. 1300)

A new project called the Black Sea Silk Route Corridor describes what the Silk Route really was.

The fabled Silk Road of lore was more than a trade route, it was a road of ideas, a throughway of culture. History’s first transcontinental “super highway” enabled commerce, science, arts, culture and ideas to course the empires and nation states that hugged its spine. Perhaps its greatest gift was not any of these, as important as they are. Still, it was a conduit of peace, for trade cannot travel across closed borders nor can it prosper in times of conflict. At its greatest, the Silk Road promoted tolerance and peaceful co-existence.

Now it is time to catch up on photos and stories from our journey along parts of the Silk Route.  Stories are written in the Central Asia menu, and on Bruce’s blog site.

Thea pointing west to the Silk Road from the ancient city wall of Xi'an

Thea pointing west to the Silk Road from the ancient city wall of Xi’an

At Gate 5 of the Great Bazaar, symbolic end to our Silk Road journey

Thea at Gate 5 of the Great Bazaar, symbolic end to our Silk Road journey

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Rules in Iran

Our guide Rasoul told us that there are two rules to obey in Iran:

  1. Be afraid of Allah
  2. Be afraid of drivers of blue trucks

Blue trucks are everywhere. They are about the size of a pickup truck with a cabin and a tray back. The tray is configured in every imaginable way.

They cart hay, animals going to slaughter, furniture, fruit & vegetables going to market, stone & soil, building materials, …

They often have an extra tray over the roof of the cabin to add to the load. I’ve seen goats tied down in that tray.

They crawl up mountain roads and slide down on their brakes.

They consider they have right of way at intersections and will happily overtake each other on freeways. Road rules don’t apply.

And they are all “RGB #0000ff ” blue.

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Good bye Iran!

Yes touring is hard work and for the past ten weeks we have been under the watchful eye of one guide or another. In fact, since we left home twenty-three guides have looked after us with varying degrees of commitment and interest in what we want to know and learn.

But it was our guide Rasoul and our driver Hamid in Iran that had the greatest impact. Rasoul’s knowledge was exemplary and Hamid’s driving was excellent, but it was the other little things that happened like finding us a coffee shop when Bruce was suffering caffeine withdrawals, a watchful eye when I went to a public toilet, without imposing. The many jokes and laughs we shared during kilometres of driving, the courtesy extended by both of them.

Choosing a dinner venue was fun. They’d chatter in Persian and then present us with a heap of options. Plan A, plan B, plan C. Sometimes plan A didn’t work so it was plan B. One evening we got down to plan G and it wasn’t a good choice. Great venue but we sat in glass boxes in a beautiful garden with inadequate heating on a night where the temperature dropped to 0C. We never went as far as plan G again.

And with all the planning and also impromptu happenings I have began to feel like a twenty-something year old again. Throw away the shackles of age and conservatism and go with the flow! It’s fun.

Best guide and driver ever - in Iran

Best guide and driver ever – in Iran

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Necessity is the mother of invention *

We have mentioned in emails and on our web sites, just how slow the internet is, as we travel through China and Central Asia.  Sorry, the rest of this gets a bit technical – jump to a few paragraphs if you “don’t want to know”.

But it wasn’t until an upgraded version of Flash on Bruce’s Mac caused enough problems that I began to think outside the box.

We both use WordPress, which has some major advantages in building web sites and adding information.  However loading our photos into the NextGen Gallery plug-in has proved almost impossible, as our connections keep dropping out.

Bruce’s problem was worse – the new version of Flash (which NextGen appears to need) doesn’t appear to be compatible with either the browsers or the NextGen plug in.  That’s when I wondered if uploading photos via FTP and then connecting them to the NextGen gallery would work.

And it did. (End of technical discussion.)

So now – when you look at my stories under Central Asia, you will find some have an asterix (*) in the title.  These are the stories that now have pics in them.  Hopefully I can add to the list.

Meanwhile, Bruce managed to publish his first post with pics.

You see – without a need, we would never have found this smart workaround!

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What value is travel?

We spend a lot of money and precious time away from the life we know, to put a pack on our back and travel to places we are not familiar with.

Where sanitary conditions are different, showers leak, hot water is unreliable, beds are too hard or too soft. We limit ourselves to a small wardrobe where every piece caters for an appropriate weather condition. We leave our precious items at home and make do with limited jewellery and no makeup. We eat unfamiliar food – too much meat or not enough, limited fruit, unfamiliar spices.

But it was a conversation with our guide and driver over breakfast in Cholpon Ata, a holiday resort on the Issyk-Kol Lake in Kyrgyzstan, that demonstrated the worth of our journeys.

In delicate terms with eyes carefully fixed on us, the question was asked “What about the Ukraine?” It was clear that strong opinions were not required but we were able to discuss in terms of the way news is reported and the agendas of the countries involved.

After loosing so many Australian residents on MH17 our sympathies are clearly with the national Ukraines who oppose the Russian involvement.

Asel & Vitali explained that the Ukraines who live near the border of Russia have always spoken Russian and don’t know the Ukraine language. They are being persecuted for speaking Russian.

There is also a battle for oil and gas resources which Europe desperately needs and Russia has

So they see that the Europeans are courting Ukraine to have access to those resources.

And of course the conversation turned to politicians and academics who draw country boundaries without regard for the ethnicity of the people who live there.

This wasn’t a debate. It was an interesting and intelligent conversation that left us all aghast at how the super powers control and manipulate for their own good.

It’s meeting intelligent, thinking people like Asel & Vitali that make travel so wonderful and intellectually challenging.

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What you can’t say in China

We have just spent an amazing 4 weeks in China.  Most of the time we followed the main tourist route on the East Coast, and there we have seen the main sights of China:

  • Beautiful Guilin and its waterways and the limestone karsts on the Li River. A night in Yangshuo where we explored the countryside on bikes.
  • Massive city of Chongqing (33 million) and from there a very hazy cruise through the Three Gorges with lots of stops to see monasteries and pagodas.
  • Hangshou, once again in mist, with more temples and pagodas and a glitzy boat ride on West Lake.  A specialised green tea industry.
  • Modern contemporary Shanghai where we ate Thai & French food and tamed the underground  From there we visited Sazhou to see beautiful gardens and the ancient grand canal
  • A tired Beijing 6 years after the Olympics and explored the Secret Garden and joined in Chinese exercises, Tienanmen Square and the Forbidden City  and the over extravagant Summer Palace
  • We did a day trip to the Great Wall at Badaling and climbed the South Side to get amazing views of crowds on the North Side. The sky turned blue for our cameras. We also visited the Ming tombs.
  • Xi’an to see the Terracotta Warriors and ride 14km around the ancient wall. We also visited Muslim Street to get a taste of the Islamic culture in China.  Xi’an is the  start of the Silk Road – our destination.

Beautiful, predictable and historically interesting. But then our experiences started to surprised us.

After an overnight train ride to Lanzhou we were surprised to see a substantial number of Muslim people and to eat lamb in preference to other meats. The food is spicy and served with dumplings and noodles.

We drove 260km to Xaihe in Tibet to meet a local family before they moved to winter grasslands, and to see the Labrang Buddhist monastery of the yellow sect and watch prayers there.

We were travelling well, but did spend a rather unromantic 41st anniversary sharing a 4 berth train compartment with two nice Chinese ladies on an overnight train to Jiayuguan. We came here to see the western extremities of the great wall, and experience life in the dessert.  It was hot, desolate and in many parts overrun by windfarms and electronic cables. It was fascinating and exhausting.

Our next overnight train took us to Turpan to see more desert and an amazing oasis, kept alive in past years by the Karez Wells and supporting a massive grape industry.  We continued to Urumqi to see the Grand Canyon of Urumqi and the Heavenly Lake.

And so our 28 day tour of China ended.  There is a lot to write, but China didn’t allow me access to my dashboard, and now we are in catch up mode and relying on hotels here to provide bandwidth.  The stories will take a little while, the pictures longer.

The rest of this journey takes us through the ‘Stans: Kazakstan, Kyrgyrzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, then Iran.  I just hope we have caught up by then.

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Australia Expensive?

We are finally in China, enjoying the experience but struggling with internet. That’s to be expected as we travel through so many countries.

Photos and stories will be posted as and when we can.

We have had mixed experiences with value for money – an amazing meal in Guilin (China) for $16, metro return train journey from Kowloon to the Big Buddha for 50 cents. But what amazed us was three cups of coffee at Guilin Airport ¥204 = $AUD36.00 – yes that’s $12 per ordinary cup of coffee.

But Bruce says his aching back was cured after his two cups of coffee – I guess that’s cheaper than a massage.

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The first sunrise

We are in the land of the first sunrise!  Tonga claims to be the first country to see the new day, as it is just west of the international date line.

We are spending 10 days here – 6 on the main island of Tongatapu and 4 on the Island of Fafa.

The rain greeted us when we arrived last night, but ever optimistic, we will see that first sunrise soon.

The blog is started, so head across to the Tonga 2014 on the menu to follow our travels.

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Happy Birthday Bruce, finally

For the man who has everything he needs (I mean cameras, lenses and other gadgets) a birthday present for Bruce was a challenge.

But as I sat at my desk building web sites and watching the bay, the little blue Tiger Moth that kept flying past gave me an idea.  Why not treat Bruce to a flight?

So nearly 2 months after his birthday, early on a warm, still, hazy Summer day, his treat came to fruition.

We were at Moorabbin airport at 7:30am to meet Lionel the pilot and Ken his right hand man.  Lionel wrapped Bruce in a leather WW2 RAF flying jacket, complete with leather helmet, goggles and headphones connected to a radio that didn’t work.

While Bruce & Lionel flew off into the blue yonder, I was entertained by Ken with stories of past flight disasters.  Interesting!

Going by the grin on Bruce’s face, both before the flight and afterwards… I think he enjoyed it.  But now you need to pop over to moustache.com.au to see the pics that Bruce took.

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