la Cavalcada de Reis Mags d’Orient (Three Kings)

The Three Kings (Melchor, Gaspar and Baltasar in Catalan) visit children in Spain on the twelfth night of Christmas like Santa visits us on Christmas Eve. We joined the parade in Barcelona that welcomes the Kings on the eve of the Epiphany.

The crowds came to the parade with crowns, bags to collect the sweets, ladders to watch from high and wish list letters.

The kings arrived from the port in a small cavalcade and the procession turned around to head into Barcelona.

First came the police horses then the emergency service vehicles and then the Royal Guard Lancers on horseback. Followed by street sweepers to clean up after the horses.

The real parade started with a double decker bus from which sweets were thrown to the crowd. Next came the post men, riding bikes or carrying nets to collect the children’s wish list letters. Others of the Kings’ helpers collected children’s pacifiers or dummies.  Various floats passed by representing children’s performers and toy factories. Dancers also passed by, often preceded by a trailer of generators to provide stage lighting. The parade was frequently punctuated by sweet throwers and the children’s bags were filling up.

The theme was definitely Middle Eastern, representing the homes of the kings and perhaps also representing the huge Moorish influence we have seen in all parts of Spain.

The Samsung float came by, followed by the Kings’ helpers recording wish lists from children in the crowd on Galaxy tablets.

A float with sleepy children drifted by, reminding the young audience that nothing will happen without a good night’s sleep.

The kings came in highly decorated floats and waved to the children, with their promises of gifts to the good children.

The last float, before the second round of street sweepers, was the coal mine, threatening to bring just a piece of coal if you were bad.

There had been a long wait for the parade but the kids were great and well entertained. Even I felt like going to bed early in case those three wise men visited me.

According to the Barcelona Yellow City Guide in 2012 an estimated 500,000 people go to see the parade which involved 1,200 costumed performers and eleven floats. Twelve tons of gluten free sweets are thrown to the crowds. I managed to grab 1 sweet.

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Merry Christmas from Bruce & Thea

Our Christmas greetings come to you this year from Barcelona, where we have rented an apartment for a few months, as a base for our travelling.

After an exciting year on the road we are finishing it with a trip to Madrid and then Granada for Christmas, where we will spend time with Hayden and his partner Andrea. We then move on to Seville for the New Year.

We will end our adventure with a European winter escape to Tenerife, in the Canary Islands, before arriving home in late January. Just in time to farewell Evan and Steph before they leave for their South American trip.

We left home in February 2012. After some time in Malaysia and Dubai, we joined a great group in Egypt, since then we have mostly been on our own. As well as the journals we have kept within our web pages, we have made a list of some highlights, they’re in the chart below.

We have enjoyed the travelling and each other’s company. Obviously it has been a year of discovery and learning. It has also been a year of tolerance, patience and understanding. So many things don’t just happen the way you expect them to.

But we have missed family and friends and all the intimacies that go with sharing a coffee or a meal and conversation in English.

It will be challenging settling back at home, not waking up to a new city with its own sights, smells and sounds every few days. But how nice to look into the wardrobe and see more clothes than will fit into a suitcase.

So as we plan our last few weeks, we also think of you and wish you a very Merry Christmas and a wonderful 2013.

Favourite Country

Turkey. A self sufficient country, easy to travel, friendly people, cheap living (other than hotels).

Most Challenging Place

Jordan, on our own in an Arabic country, understanding where to find a meal. But we got into the swing and loved it.

Most Frightening Experience

Driving from Naples to Amalfi. Not only was our tyre spiked in Naples, the road on the Amalfi coast was narrow, winding and confronting.

Most Frustrating

Thea’s computer breaking down twice & having to resort to sharing Bruce’s Mac.

Happiest Time

Seeing Hayden and meeting Andrea.

Best Roman Ruin

Jerash, Jordan.

Best Egyptian Ruin

The tombs in the Valley of the Kings.

Best Preserved Building

The Alhambra in Granada

Biggest Surprise

Our leased car from Renault was upgraded to a black Megane Sports with leather interior and low profile tyres. Great deal.

Best City

Barcelona. Having spent several months here we feel as though we are getting to understand it. However we will never fully understand when businesses, shops and restaurants are actually open.

Best Walk

Through the City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia.

Best Drive

Around the Painted Monasteries in Rumania.

Most Surprising Site

The Nuraghe Majori burial grounds (approx 1600BC) in Sardinia.

Best Museum

The New Acropolis Museum in Athens.

Most Surprising Museum

The ‘Underground’ Museum of Roman ruins in Badalona, where we are living in Barcelona.

Best Food

France, as is expected.

Worst Food

Some kind of offal we ate in Romania. Still don’t know what it was.

Best View From a Hotel

Our hotel in Santorini was on the very edge of the Caldera.

Best Hotel

We lucked it for a resort in Jordan that was way beyond our budget. The travel agent had made a mistake with our booking!

Most Relaxed Hotel

It wasn’t a hotel but a farm stay in Tuscany, at a place called Tenuta di Papena.

Most Surprising Hotel

Capo Caccia Hotel, Alghero, Sardinia. It was a time warp from the 1960s.

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Not a Golden Silence

My silence is inflicted and I am not a happy traveller. My cute little ASUS has broken down again and has been at the ASUS doctor in Portugal for three weeks and I haven’t heard boo from them.

And to top that off, we have reached three hundred days and I am unable to tell you what we have done – it is all on the ASUS.

But Bruce has just counted up the different beds we have slept in since my 200 days report. In the last 100 days it is 42 beds, which means we have slept in 106 different beds since leaving home. There is one little statistic for you.

And the iPad just doesn’t do photos well enough to post them.

However, since settling here in Badalona we have made train trips to Valencia to see the fantastic new architecture and to Pamplona to see a beautiful medieval city and a more beautiful medieval castle in nearby Olite.

We have also made a few trips to Barcelona to see exhibitions of Joan Miro and Picasso as well as learning to navigate those tiny, twisted streets of the Gothic area.

Now I am sitting in the sun at our local cafe, waiting for my Pinchos to be served. It is winter, about 15C and still.

Perhaps life isn’t so bad after all!

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Good bye to the Renault

We handed the Renault back to Renault Eurodrive this week.  Here are some statistics on the cost for your perusal…

  • 23862 km in 163 days (5 weeks 10 days), average 146.4km/day
  • 1662 litres of fuel, average 10.2 litres/day
  • Fuel consumption 14.36km/litre
  • Fuel cost $AUD3137 averaging $AUD1.89/litre, $AUD19.25/day
  • Most expensive: 4 Oct, Little Worley, UK, $AUD2.28
  • Least expensive: 24 July, Herceg Novi, Montenegro, $AUD1.48
  • Cost of vehicle lease $4378, average $AUD26.86/day
  • Cost of vehicle plus fuel $AUD46.10/day (excluding toll fees & parking charges)

There is a whole spreadsheet of numbers if you want the details!!

Bruce has driven most of it – truth is he is a lousy passenger so there is far more harmony when he drives and I knit!

Bruce & the Renault 

 

 

My first project – gloves for Hayden whilst he is in Paderborn, Germany

 

 
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A Funny Sort Of Day

The first sign that yesterday (14 November) was “funny” was when our neighbours hit the snooze button 4 times on their alarm from 6am. We normally hear them clunking around in the morning.

Then the post office was closed. No sign out the front to explain why, but a lady who worked in the sorting room had an explanation. Not that we could understand what she said.

The big post office in Badalona was also closed, as were the shops. Still no explanation.

Our next stop was to the Renault Eurodrive office to return our car at the end of its lease. The factories in the area were shut up and the area seemed abandoned.

The Renault man enlightened us to the General Strike. The whole of SpaIn was on strike.  Of course, we later found out that the strike was called for the whole of the European community.

Of course this had implications. The Renault man dropped us at the airport as per the contract. It was abandoned except for a few lost souls. Even the toilets were closed – on strike.

No transport. Instead it cost us €20 to get a taxi into Barcelona. Just to find everything shut.

After two hours of walking we came to a hotel restaurant that served food. The jovial Asian waiters were more than happy to serve us.

With an hour to kill before essential services like limited train services resumed, we managed to find a bar where we could have a refreshing ale. It quickly “closed up” and we were forced inside and out of sight of the strikers who were likely to force a shut down of the bar.

Those businesses that did try to break the strike did so with their shutters half closed, just in case strikers wanted to force them shut.

As we left the bar at 5:30pm masses were flocking into the centre of town. Not the rebel rousers you would see at home. Older couples and young families with children were among those going to put a voice to their frustrations.

We quietly made our way home. We have no say in this conundrum. It is for Spain and her people.

And why the strike?

Many services in Spain are reduced, in some cases to nothing. Austerity measures and extremely high unemployment is creating mass frustration.

Some say it is too early for the effects of the new government to be felt, but the unions believe progress is too slow.

We really don’t see much of its effect on a day-to-day basis, but this, like the 11 September rally for Catalonia Day, gives a voice to their frustrations.

Our time here is to gain an understanding of the Spanish lifestyle. It is relaxed and pleasant. It is also frustratingly complex. Bars are open one day and not the next. Supermarkets may shut during siesta according to the day of the week or the season.

Spain, like other southern European countries has a lot going for it. Roads are good. Cities are beautiful. Beaches compete with ours in Australia. Living, for us, is cheap. People are friendly and helpful. The tourists keep coming and spending.

I do hope there is a plausible solution at the end for them.

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Finding his roots

We took Hayden to Nieder Weisel, the birthplace of his g-g-g-grandmother Anna Margaretha Bill. She was his mother’s father’s mother’s mother’s mother. She migrated to Australia in 1856 along with many young people from the same village. After spending time on the goldfields of Ballarat she moved to Yackandandah where she married Christian Backhaus from near Hamburg.

It was nice to show Hayden a little of his heritage.

Anna Margaretha’s story is here.

Hayden & Thea at the plaque commemorating the Nieder-Weisel people in Australia

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Only hot or cold

After enduring months of 35C+ days as we toured through the Mediterranean, we were somewhat shocked when it snowed in Germany… in October.  Our German friends told us the snow came a month early this year.

Seems we have had a year of extreme weather in Europe.

First snow of the season and it is only October – near Bammental

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Three Mates

It has been delightful to sit in the background and watch three school friends catch up.

Yes, we are a long way from home, but Denis lives in Switzerland and Rob is touring Spain – so for a special few days the boys were together…

I don’t know how they looked in their school shorts, and perhaps that is a good thing.  But to see that special camaraderie this week was wonderful.

And, whilst Denis had to return to Switzerland and work, our travel for another few days with the gorgeous Rob & Lorraine has been a treat.

Denis, Rob & Bruce on Barcelonetta beach – irresistible

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Monet – Sunshine and Colour

In contrast to the grey wet day when we visited the war memorials of the Somme, the sun shone and there was a little warmth in the air.

Giverny is a monument to Claude Monet and the impressionist’s artist colony that developed around him at the turn of the 20th century.

Centre stage is Monet’s house and garden.

Devestated by his wife’s death, he took up residence with a friend whose husband had run away. His two and her six children made a decent house full and he eventually purchased the house he rented and then set about creating a garden, which inspired much of his work. And now I know why.

On this delightful autumn day, with soft sunlight filtering between the trees, the garden was alive with flowers. The garden was full of the strong yellows, oranges and reds you expect at the end of the season as well as soft pinks and creams and dazzling blues and purples that leave you gasping.

Autumn creates a chaotic, tangled growth. I can imagine the gardens being quite orderly in Spring, but flowers were spilling over each other for their last flash of glory before hibernating in the Winter months.

Yes, the lily pond had flowers which were slow to open in the cooler air, but the lawns were also ablaze with crocus, many recovering from yesterday’s persistent rain.

Monet’s house is as colourful as his garden. I loved the yellow dining room – such a happy place to eat, drink and be merry and an amazing contrast to the orderly blue kitchen. Sadly, photos not allowed in the house.

Monet had a huge passion for Japanese art and there were many woodblock prints covering all sorts of subjects including gruesome battles featuring headless warriors, exotic women bathing and pearl diving and Japanese stylised westerners.

Between us we managed nearly 400 photos. We will share just a few with you, here is a sample.

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A Reality Check in the Somme

We had visited Gallipol where both my grandfathers had fought.  However my Pop (maternal grandfather) and his brother Laurie went on to serve in France, in Flanders and the Somme.

More amazingly, his younger brother Tom and four of his future brothers-in-law were also fighting in France.  Luckily they all returned home, but not without injuries.  Laurie lost an arm to a sniper’s bullet and Tom would succumb to gas poisoning.  A cousin didn’t make it home and is buried in Flanders.

So we have just toured the Somme.  The day was grey and wet, not a perfect tourist day, but horrible enough to give us an insight into the awful conditions Pop and his extended family endured.

Once again my thoughts went out to my ancestors and a certain relief lifted my heart as I realised how unlikely it is that my own sons would have to go and fight a senseless war.

National Australian Memorial, Villers-Bretonneux, softened by rain drops.

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