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26-29 August 2019
There is always a chance to catch up with the Barclay’s, and there is always a new/different place they suggest we visit. An opportunity to back out of the intensity and concern of our little newborn and take a break, a breather.
This time it was (in time) equidistant between Berlin and Arnex sur Orbe. A fast train for us and a slow train for Denis and Martine.
Our destination was Lindau on the north eastern edge of Bodensee Obersee or the larger of the Lake Constance lakes. The lake borders Germany to the north, Switzerland to the south and Austria on its eastern edge.
Denis had found Hotel Garni Viktoria, a quaint hotel a little behind the main street and a massive climb to the quaint rooms in the roof.
We all arrived in the afternoon. Martine was impatient to explore and the Hundertwasser Exhibition, at the Kunstmuseum am Inselbahnhof was a perfect start. Set in a typically styled German house, the exhibition was bright, modern and very colourful.
FRIEDENSREICH HUNDERTWASSER (1928-2000) is known around the world for his visionary paintings and architecture. His works and essays make up a lively body of contemporary criticism, promoting clear-sighted concepts for changing social and economic circumstances.
More information at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friedensreich_Hundertwasser and his amazing work.
We wandered down to the Lindauer Hafeneinfahrt (harbour entrance) with its distinctive lion and lighthouse guarding the entrance, and had dinner quayside as we watched the day turn to night with its magnificent colours.
We were up and out early next day as Martine had planned a visit to Mainau Island on the southern shore at the western end of Lake Constance. The faster ferry ride was 2 hours, travelling along the beautiful lake passing small towns like Friedrichshafen and Meersburg and stunning scenery, particularly vineyards. Much to our amusement, blimps wandered overhead.
Mainau has a subtropical climate with an almost year round warm climate. Exotic trees and flowers are a feature for the visitors that flock to the small island. We enjoyed the many paths that offer colourful flowers and beautiful views. An arboretum and a butterfly house added to the interest.
We returned on the slow ferry, an excuse to enjoy a beer/wine during the 2½ hour journey.
We were back in Lindau to enjoy another pleasant evening by the harbour and a wander around town in the evening light.
Martine had to return home to her commitment to teach the local refugees French. Denis, Bruce and I took the train to Friedrichshafen (Frederick’s Harbour) named after King Frederick I of Württemberg visited the town in 1811.
The main industry connected to Friedrichshafen in the early 20th century was the Zeppelin airship production. Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin had first conceived the rigid airship in 1874, after observing the use of tethered balloons in the American Civil War and the Franco-Prussian war.
We were here to explore the Zeppelin Museum, which documents the importance of aviation history, especially the development of airship production, and the story of the Hindenburg.
The museum included reconstruction of a part of the Hindenburg, showcasing the sleeping accommodation and the lounge. It also gave us an insight into the structure of the airship.
An extra exhibition in the museum (no photos allowed) was related to the ‘Nazi plunder’ of German art. What was most interesting was the way art pieces are identified so they can be returned to their original owners. The science and analysis that goes behind this work was fascinating.
We returned to Lindau to explore the rest of the town, Maximillianstrasse and the Market Square, which is dominated by two churches.
Kirche St. Stephan (St Stephan’s Church) (1188 rebuilt 1783) is a protestant church and now the largest place of worship in Lindau. A portrait exhibition by Brigitta Loch entitled Sieh Mich (See Me) seemed to convert the church into a wonderful art gallery.
Münster Unserer Lieben Frau (Cathedral of Our Lady) (810, rebuilt 1748-1752) is the catholic church and is richly decorated in the Rococo style.
We returned to Berlin the following day, a long, wet train ride.
