Spain – it’s all about a wedding

Andrea & Hayden. Granada, 3 September 2016

Andrea & Hayden. Granada, 3 September 2016

We spent five weeks in Spain, arriving in Barcelona in mid-August.

Of course the most important event was Hayden & Andrea’s wedding in Granada. They had met whilst studying at the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona and developed a beautiful relationship during their study years.

With PhDs completed and jobs found in Berlin, all was set to tie the knot. So we gathered in Granada for a wonderfully happy and beautiful ceremony.

We used the opportunity to explore more of Spain, heading south to Malaga then to the Pueblos Blancos, Gibraltar (not really Spain), Cadiz, Mérida and Toledo, before flying out to Southern Africa.

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Evan’s Dailies

First a curious image appeared on Facebook, posted by Evan. And the next day another one appeared. And the day following there was another image.

Evan explained that this was a project he had long planned and suddenly, living in New York, there was the time to execute it. The challenge was to create a new image each day, exploring features and tapping into his skills in digital design. He told me that some images took an hour to create, others longer. Mostly he uses a program called Cinema 4D, but he also explores features in other digital design programs such as After Effects, Photoshop and Illustrator.

In fact, he told me that some days he can’t get to his computer, so he does them on his phone.

So as the weeks went by I started to check Facebook daily and sure enough, he has not missed a day, and has created 58 Dailies to date, starting on 21 September.

I also found his Dailies on his web site www.the-silent-partner.com/dailies and on Instagram https://instagram.com/evanstainsby/

The anticipation of tomorrow’s daily is now great.

And I have a bet with Bruce that he won’t keep it up until Christmas…

Dailies on The Silent PartnerDailies on Instagram

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USA on wheels – part 2

Our second journey on wheels in North America took us across the north from Seattle to New York, crossing into Canada at both the western and eastern coasts.

This journey took us from Washington State to British Columbia, Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Ontario, Quebec, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and New York.

And for the statistics.

In 30 days we slept in 16 different beds.

Because our journey took us through Canada as well as USA, the distances and fuel consumption was measured in miles/gallons and kilometers/litres, so some conversion was necessary. We travelled 4846 miles (7799 kilometers), averaging 161.5 miles per day (260km per day). We used 529 litres of fuel at an average cost of $AUD1.22 per litre.

It was grey and cool in Seattle, but the weather cleared as we drove north to Vancouver.  We enjoyed Vancouver so much that we extended our stay there. We then drove to Whistler for brunch and continued through the Fitzsimmons Range, admiring the pine forests and lakes, then turned south along the Fraser River to Lytton and Hope.

We drove east along a mining corridor of Canada, past Copper Mountain to Crawston where we stayed on a vineyard run by a German family, and we drank some beautiful crisp white wines.

Travelling south, we crossed back to USA and headed to the Grand Coulee Dam and through the wheat belt, on long straight roads to Missoula. From there we crossed the Rocky Mountains to Wyoming.

There were bike riders everywhere as we visited Little Bighorn – the site of Custer’s Last Stand. We had reached South Dakota with a million bike riders who were there for the 75th Sturgis Motorcycle Rally.

We joined bikers when we visited Devil’s Tower, Crazy Horse rock carving, Mount Rushmore, Wall Drug and the Badlands.

We continued east across the prairies of South Dakota and Missouri, crossed both the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers and passed acres and acres of wheat and corn crops.

The land greened and became undulating in Wisconsin, where we visited Frank Lloyd Wright’s warehouse for AD German in Richland Center, and then continued to Chicago to see more FLW houses.

Next stop was Detroit, where we marvelled at Henry Ford’s vision and saw the emptiness left by the demise of the USA car industry.

Back to Canada – to see the amazing Niagara Falls set amongst glitz that rivals Las Vegas, then to the cities of Montreal and Quebec for a little French-Canadian culture.

We followed the Freedom Trail in Boston, learning about the beginnings of ‘Western civilisation’ in the Americas.

We popped into Rhode Island for lunch then onto Milford in Conneticut before the last few miles to New York.

Evan & Steph were ready to greet us in New York and show us the city they had just made their home!

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USA on wheels – part 1

We have just finished part 1 of USA on wheels. An anti-clockwise journey in the western states.

Our journey took us through the states of California, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon and we ‘touched’ New Mexico.

For those who like statistics, in 32 days we slept in 21 beds, drove 4909 miles (7900 kilometres) averaging 153.4 miles per day (246.9 kilometres per day). We used 126.51 gallons (478.9 litres) of gas (petrol) at an average cost of $USD3.38/gallon (approx $AUD1.24/litre).

After exploring Los Angeles prior to returning home for Ev& Steph’s wedding, and with a lot of good advice from our good friend Ian, we hit the road in a Nissan Versa with a dodgy speaker system.

First stop was the glitz of Las Vegas. From there we drove Route 66 to visit a friend from Honeywell days, Ruby and see the Frank Lloyd Wright’s West Taliesin house in Scottsdale near Phoenix.

We drove through the amazing Red Rock Canyon and beautiful Oak Creek to the even more amazing Grand Canyon, and then to Monument Valley, a place held sacred by the Navajo Indians.

We touched the Four Corners, states Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado before spending time at the ancient houses of the Cliff Dwellers of Mesa Verde and then watching 4th July celebrations in Durango.

We then toured the amazing Arches National Park and walked miles over rocky formations.

Changing our focus from outdoors to indoors we visited Salt Lake City for an insight into the Family Search Center.

We travelled through lush farmland to reach the famed parks of Wyoming, Grand Teton and Yellowstone.

We crossed the dry harsh potato land of Idaho and followed the Colorado River to Portland where we did some city sightseeing and refreshed ourselves each evening at the craft breweries.

A quick stop in Oregon’s wine country, for coffee, and then the long 1360 mile drive down the coast through rugged coastlines, tiny fishing villages in Oregon and old red gum forests in California.

We did taste wine in the Napa Valley and we walked across the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, before viewing the calmer coastline to Los Angeles.

It’s been hard keeping our blogs up to date. Long tourist days and a plethora of decent craft breweries in the evening combined with surprisingly poor internet in many places have made it difficult to get stories written and pics uploaded. So now we will make an effort to update our sites as we embark on phase 2 from Seattle to New York, on an as yet unplanned route.

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A Joyful Interruption

It’s not every day that your younger unmarried son decides to change his status, but Evan is not your everyday person. And so we were asked to come home for a special event.

We tried to sneak into the country from our long tour through Asia and the Americas, and confine our time to the celebrations. That didn’t happen. Well the wedding did, but the sneaking in didn’t.

Evan and his long term girlfriend Steph were married on 16 June in a very small, intimate ceremony.  They celebrated with family and friends the following weekend.

While they had discussed the possibility with us a number of times, we were both surprised and delighted when they announced their intentions.

The reasons make sense – Steph has accepted a place at the University of Columbia in New York to study a Master’s in Education Research, starting in early September.

Evan has been finding it hard to get work in New York from applications made in Australia, so being married means he can travel to the USA on a spouse visa with Steph. And he hopes he can more easily track down work from there, then apply for the work visa.

I know – it is similar to Bruce’s & my story in 1973!

When I think of the 11 days that we were in town, it was non-stop.

There was coffee, dinners, hen’s and buck’s events, the wedding, the party and the families’ get-to-know-you.

We also caught up with a few people and we squeezed in a relaxing night at Sorrento to check our little house.

Small as the wedding celebration was, there was depth to it. Evan and Steph did not exchange rings, instead they chose meaningful gifts.

Evan gave Steph a sparrow’s wing broach made by the taxidermist jeweller Julia deVille, with the message ‘Dear Stephanie, to the next stage and wherever the wind takes us. All my love, Evan’.

And Stephanie’s gift to Evan was a tie bar as a symbol of her love for him, ‘It’s close to the heart and has the longitude and latitude of Princes Bridge stamped into it, which is the centre of our home Melbourne, and it is neither north nor south of the Yarra River’.

The short and very sweet ceremony was followed by dinner in the cellar of the Carlton Wine Room.

Friends and family were then invited to a party at Hares and Hyenas on Saturday 20 June. It is an interesting bookshop-come-café run by Steph’s uncle Rowland and his partner. Great Mexican food, good music and lots of chatter. It was a chance for the Stainsby’s and Templeton’s to get to know each other.

We finished the celebrations when Kate & Mark hosted lunch for us and the Templeton’s on Sunday.

The Templeton’s came from Rutherglen, Numurkah and Far North Queensland. The Wilson’s (Stainsby side) came from Brisbane and the Gold Coast and of course we flew in from Los Angeles. Many miles were covered for the event.

We are still coming to terms with our younger son’s marriage and that we officially have a daughter-in-law.

The photos that follow are a combination from my camera as well as sister Kate, niece Kim and nephew Mike.

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Goodbye Mexico & Central America
It’s been nice to know you

After 14 weeks on the road and a week of R&R, we farewell Mexico and Central America.

  • We met school children in the Dominican Republic who begged us to take their photos. We encountered our first experience of the Spanish Conquests of the Americas.
  • We learnt how hard life is in Cuba, and perhaps it is easing as Fidel fades.
  • We saw monuments and churches, ate wonderful food and drove miles in Mexico. Ev and Steph joined us for a few days in Sayulita.
  • We marvelled at the engineering of the Panama Canal – still functioning the same as it did when it opened 101 years ago. Then we found flowers and coffee in the mountains.
  • We came close to wildlife in Cost Rica – enjoying watching monkeys in their own habitat.
  • We visited ancient, colourful towns and marvelled at active volcanoes in Nicaragua.
  • We saw lakes and volcanoes and beautiful indigenous people in Guatemala. Then we learnt more about the ancient culture at Tikal.
  • We chilled out in a lay back beach resort in San Pedro, Belize.

Eight amazing, diverse countries.  There are many stories and photos under The Americas menu, and still more to come.

Our next adventure is driving the USA.

School children loved to have their photos taken at the Parque Independencia, Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

School children loved to have their photos taken at the Parque Independencia, Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

 

Owen and his 1954 Chevrolet ride through Havana, Cuba

Owen and his 1954 Chevrolet ride through Havana, Cuba

 

Ev & Steph enjoy coconut juice in San Francisco, Mexico

Ev & Steph enjoy coconut juice in San Francisco, Mexico

 

El Castillo (main pyramid) Chichen Itza, Mexico

El Castillo (main pyramid) Chichen Itza, Mexico

 

Moving from first lock to second lock of the Panama Canal. Each lock rises 25 feet.

Moving from first lock to second lock of the Panama Canal. Each lock rises 25 feet.

 

White-faced monkeys. Manuel Antonio National Park, Costa Rica

White-faced monkeys. Manuel Antonio National Park, Costa Rica

 

Crator Santiago at Masaya Volcano, Nicaragua

Crator Santiago at Masaya Volcano, Nicaragua

 

Embroidery. Market day in Chichicastenango, Guatemala

Embroidery. Market day in Chichicastenango, Guatemala

 

Isla Bonita Yacht Club, San Pedro, Belize

Isla Bonita Yacht Club, San Pedro, Belize

 

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Tikal – a lesson in climate change

The ancient archaeological site of Tikal is in the north of Guatemala, not far from the Mexican border. There are a lot of ancient Mayan sites in this area, but most of them are still engulfed in jungle. In fact the jungle is relatively new.

The Mayan people first came to this area about 3000BC. Development was slow to begin with, the people were still hunter-gatherers until around 500BC. From that time, for the next 1500 years they developed tools, agriculture and religion. They lived in the jungle where food was abundant.

Religion and culture became important, which brought the need to build temples. Tikal was chosen for its limestone, which was considered suitable for ceremonial and royal buildings. But there was no water source. Rain water was collected and stored.

As culture developed, land was cleared for crops, for housing and then for ceremonial sites. The population expanded and so did the need for cleared land.

The monuments we saw at Tikal, in their hey day, were on cleared land with limestone paving around them.

Wars were fought between various tribes, mostly to maintain territorial boundaries.

By the mid ninth century AD the climate had become too hot and dry to sustain the population. The rainforests had gone, taken over by housing, cropping and civic and religous centres. But without rain, crops could not grow and the population could not be fed.

Over the next two centuries the cities were abandoned. But it took hundreds of years for the rain forest to grow back.

Sadly, the same thing is happening in Central America today, as the forests are taken down for cropping.

But this isn’t a story about Tikal or Guatemala or Central America. This is a story about climate change and the devastating effect it has already had, and will continue to have on our Earth.

Travel opens your mind to some wonderful experiences and to some sad truths.

Ancient cedar tree

Ancient cedar tree

Ceiba tree, tree of life for Maya's, with bromeliads

Ceiba tree, tree of life for Maya’s, with bromeliads

View from Temple IV, the highest

View of the rain forest from Temple IV, Tikal

 

 

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Should you pay to visit a zoo?

On our last day in Mexico City we visited Chapultepec Zoo. It is free. And it is tired. The big cats had nice enclosures but many other animals appeared to be living in a cement cell. Big, but without greenery, water or objects to entertain them.

We don’t visit many zoos because we prefer to see animals in more natural environments, but I was interested to see the pandas, as the zoo boasts a successful breeding program. We saw one very sleepy panda and another which was walking around in circles.

In fact, when I looked through my photos, the only photos I took at the zoo was this panda walking around in circles.

So what is the value of paying to enter a zoo? It is often costly, but it surely brings in revenue to maintain it and provide comfort for the animals.

Perhaps we shouldn’t have visited the Chapultepec Zoo after all.

Panda at Chapultepec Zoo

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How to be ripped off by a Mexican taxi driver

Take a taxi – 40 pesos. A little more than expected but OK.

Take a taxi back.

The fare jumped to 120 pesos, a 200% increase.

Hand over two 50 peso notes and some coins. Driver looks back at us showing a 50 and a 20 peso note. Seems like I had a 20 peso note mixed up with the 50s?

Hand over another 50 peso note.

Driver looks back showing one end is missing. I hadn’t noticed that. Swap the note for a good one.

Driver asks if we can exchange a 500 peso note for smaller currency. Fortunately we decline.

As we leave the taxi Bruce and I query what happened.

Clearly our taxi driver had some clever tricks up his sleeve, that we gringos were not aware of.

50 pesos is worth about $4.26 in today’s market.

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You can’t explain Cuba

We arrived in Havana and after exploring the big city started an eastward journey. First stop was Cienfuegos, a city colonised by the French. From there we took a road trip to Santa Clara, which is all about Che Guevara and his part in liberating Cuba for Fidel & Raul Castro.

Our next driver toured through the Escambray peaks to reach Trinidad a preserved ancient Spanish colonial town, a photographers treat. We swapped taxis for an intercity bus for the 200+km journey to Camagüey, arriving in time to walk in to town and not get lost. We took another intercity bus 270km to Santiago de Cuba in the east of the country. That was our journey in Cuba.

There is so much that we hear about Cuba – the colourful houses, the classic American cars, the music. It is all here.

There are no rules with colour. I sometimes wonder if a colour scheme was an exercise in coordination of colours or simply whichever paint pot was opened next. Our rooms have varied from soft lemon and purple combinations to ten different bright greens. The trims on the houses will either complement the colour or fiercely oppose it. It doesn’t matter.

Wherever you look, colour has not been spared.

To complement the coloured houses are the brilliantly renovated classic American cars. Duco can be sky blue, grass green, mocha brown, baby doll pink or fire engine red. Upholstery looks magnificent in the soft top versions. These cars are not only for the tourists. They are one of many forms of taxis used throughout the country. The old cars used as local taxis are not nearly so beautifully decked out, but there is no doubt that some very talented mechanics can keep so many of these old cars going.

But USA placed a trade embargo on Cuba in 1961, so the classic cars stopped coming. Instead the classic Russian Ladas were imported. Not nearly as pretty, nor comfortable but very much more practical – the simplicity of these cars mean they will run forever. We saw enough of them in Central Asia to vouch for that.

Music is everywhere, it is indeed the life and soul of Cuba. Bars and restaurants will either have a house band or will allow roving performers to play a few pieces. And at the end of each bracket one of the band members will offer to sell you their music CD and will also ask for a ‘donation’ to their cause. We found it good practice to keep a few coins rather than be embarrassed.

We also discovered other parts of Cuba not so well known.

Queues. The pharmacy, the bank, the post office, the telephone offices, the pizza bars, the hole-in-the-wall markets all support a patient queue of people awaiting their turn.

Empty shelves. Commodities are precious in Cuba. Even buying water proved a challenge. One store only had 500ml water with gas, another store only had 1.5litre bottles of still water and a small street market had the 500ml bottles of still water we wanted. Shelves are scaringly empty and variety is non existent. One type of cooking oil was available. Toilet paper may be scarce in one store, toothpaste in another. We have not seen empty shelves to match since East Berlin in the 70s.

Communication. Most Cubans have been banned from using services such as the Internet and email, and now that there is a little relaxation the cost of computers and related connectivity is beyond most Cubans. Mobile phones have only recently been introduced. For us the difference is not seeing every second person on the street or in a coffee shop or sitting outside their home connected to a device. In the Casa Particulars the house phone rings incessantly, just like I remember when we were a household of teenagers in the 60s.

It was a fascinating and frustrating experience, worsened by the fact that we missed our connection to fly to Mexico after our place from Santiago de Cuba to Havana was delayed by 7 hours.  It cost us an uncomfortable night n airport benches and an extremely expensive rescheduled flight via Panama City.

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